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The first new potatoes of the bay are marvellous.
In each parcel where they grow - the earth is often enriched with wrack - they pick up a different flavour.
While these new potatoes are being dug up, the last grey shrimp of winter are being caught.
In this recipe, I like the delicate flavour of the new potato with the sweetness of the shrimp, its aromatic stock, the salty, iodised taste of wild salicornia, and the acidity of sorrel leaf.
Serves 4
Ingredients
800 g new potatoes (sirtema variety) (1 lb, 12 oz) - 1 kg live grey shrimp (2 lbs, 4 oz) - 200 g salicornia (8 oz) - 20 small sorrel leaves - 280 g salted butter (10 oz) - 6 garlic cloves - 5 coarsely ground peppercorns
Very easy and quick.
Basic preparation
At least 2 hours beforehand, plunge the live shrimp into boiling sea water or heavily salted water.
Drain the warm shrimp, peel them and set aside the heads and shells.
Set aside the shrimp meat in an airtight container, but not in the refrigerator. Place the heads and shells in a small saucepan and add water just to cover.
Bring slowly to a simmer and leave for 2 hours. Strain through a stainless steel chinois or a fine strainer.
Final preparation
In a small saute pan, roast the garlic cloves in the oven with a drizzling of oil and a knob of butter. Use the tip of a knife to test them for doneness.
Rinse the salicornia and plunge them into boiling salted water. Refresh them in cold water, drain.
Cut the salicornia into small dice. Cut the butter into small cubes.
Rub the new potatoes with coarse salt and wash them. Cook them in salted water - 15 g (1/2 oz) coarse salt per litre (check the potatoes with the tip of a knife for doneness).
Peel the potatoes while they are still hot and crush them with a fork and 250 g (9 1/4 oz) butter. Add 15 ml (1 tbsp) salicornia and the crushed peppercorns, without overworking the mixture.
Set aside in a warm place, covered with plastic wrap, in a bain-marie.
Last minute
Heat 2 dl (6 oz) shrimp stock and add the remaining 30 g (1 oz) butter, whisking constantly. Warm the roasted garlic cloves.
On each plate, arrange three spoonfuls of the puree studded with salicornia. Make a well in the centre.
Plunge the shrimp for a few brief seconds into the hot buttered bouillon. They should not be recooked.
Place the shrimp and bouillon in the hollow of the puree, dividing the mixture between the plates. Surround with small sorrel leaves and roasted garlic cloves.
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© Olivier Roellinger - Maisons de Bricourt. |
